The cathedral was cool. The cooing pidgeons startled me so badly I thought I'd fall down the stairs (185, I counted). They just suddenly started up when I got 2/3 of the way up the tower, a crazed hooting sort of noise. It blended with the wind, creating a groaning, panting, almost agonized gasping. The view was splendid at the top, once I figured out what the din was.
I tried Swiss food last night: the "traditional" pasta is heavy and herby, with a strange, medicinal aftertaste. It came with pumpkin and mushrooms and was overall pretty edible. I watched my neighbors eat their fondue--that will be next, I think. The menu advertized "traditional Swiss burned custard," which sounds much less appetizing than creme brulee, and offered "tepid" instead of warm foods and just plain Schlagram, a portion of pure whipped cream, for dessert.
I stopped by the English pub afterward to see if I could catch a Six Nations match, but they had football on instead. A couple of Brits from Essex joined me at my table and we talked politics and health care while they introduced me to their favorite Swiss and German Bier. The local brew, Hürlimann, was rather pale for my tastes. One of the Brits got me a Schneider Weisse (Weiß), from Munich, which was very good. We also sampled a Tetley, since they were proud of their country's version. That one's from Leeds.
I spent all day today in the Swiss National Museum, which had a history of der Schweiss from early man through about the 1800s. They ancient graves were well-preserved and fascinating to a group of blond schoolchildren. I also liked the current exhibit, of saints in art. I get to learn more about religion on this trip, and where better to do it than the home of Ulrich Zwingli. (Turns out the guy's name is actually Huldrych.) I have been dredging up what I can remember from AP Euro.
I realized after the museum that I had spent 41 of the prior 47 hours awake, so I took another nap. I should be mostly adjusted to Swiss time by tomorrow. After that, I took a chance on a German menu and ended up with ostrich stroganoff. Awesome. It was pretty good, and I have enough for lunch tomorrow as well. After dinner, I took an evening stroll in a loop around the city, down the river Limmat and up the other side, with a detour to an overlook park, Lindenhof. I wanted to check out the Cabaret Voltaire, but I was too tired. Portlanders, you know that giant blue "VOLVO" sign? Zürich has us beat with a giant blue "Lindt: chocolats fines" sign.
Best tuck in, I have multiple trains tomorrow, and I want to get a bike ride in before I leave. They've got free bike rental by the train station, so I can throw my bags in a locker and visit a few more places in Zürich before I head up to the Alps.
